Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Monday, January 4, 2010

Denise Grünstein

(*you'll probably want to click to view these images larger)

        Denise Grünstein has been getting a bit of internet attention lately because of a series of photographs she's taken of Sandra Backlund's knitwear (see second image). I thought they were pretty cool (very creepy and surreal, which in this specific case is admittedly largely due to Backlund's strange fashions), so I did a bit of looking at Grünstein's other stuff.
        I went through her site in order, which goes editorial - advertising - exhibition - flowers (i'll be honest i spent very little time looking at the flower pictures, beautiful but not nearly as interesting). I was really interested in her editorial and advertising work, they're as I mentioned, very surreal and quirky. They definitely have a bit of that commercial vibe to them though (not that there's anything wrong with this, it's just recognizable). I was then even more excited to see her "exhibition" section, which pushes out of the safe zone and really makes you wonder what the hell is going on. In "Figure in Landscape" (images 1&4) a woman carries out some questionable activities (dragging a pink garbage bag through a park?) in what seem to be varying emotional states, and in different levels of visibility. In "Malplacé" (3rd image) it becomes difficult to determine how many women are in the images, which are paired in diptychs, most of which with just one woman, until suddenly she finds herself back to back with her doppelgänger. The series are bizarre to say the least, and I love the feeling of not really knowing what is going on, but that something is not quite right. Definitely worth taking a look.

Grünstein's website




images: cameralink.com/photographers/denise-grunstein

Thursday, December 31, 2009

2009 wrap-up


        In case you haven't been following my every move this year, here are my top ten favorite discoveries (all are artists that I had not known of before this year, since I sometimes write about long-time influences of mine):

April 18th : Bianca Casady (knew of her before 2009, but not her artwork)
April 29th : Jan Švankmajer
June 5th : Nadine Byrne
June 7th : Miwa Yanagi
July 24th : Compagnia della Fortezza
July 29th : Andrea Marshall
August 12th : Ali Scarpulla
September 23rd : Bert & Bertie
October 9th : Susanna Majuri
December 21st : Miru Kim




        I realize that the majority of this list is women, and while this did not surprise me (I tend to seek out female artists), I was slightly surprised after a bit of investigation, that the reasoning for this is also partially that the male artists that I've written about this past year are almost entirely artists I had prior knowledge of (and therefor did not include). This coming year I'll try to find some guys who are new to me.

images (top to bottom): Miwa Yanagi, Bert & Bertie, Andrea Marshall & Susanna Majuri

Monday, November 16, 2009

Reed + Rader



Back to normal posting from my 2 week hiatus! Midterms are over and I am ready to go.

        And of course I am back with something bizarre and fascinating. I usually try not to post more than four images, but since these were just so amazing, and because I've been gone for two weeks, I possibly went a little overboard. But I'm not apologizing, because as I said, the images are amazing.
        Reed + Rader is made up of fashion (photography/ video/ installation/ graphics) duo Pamela Reed and Matther Rader. What initially attracted me to their work was the strange feel and unconventional look. Two minutes into their website I was hooked.
        I can not tell you much about the artists themselves, other than that they are 26 and live in New York. Their website also states that they "enjoy cats, stuffed animals, nintendo, pizza, robots, deli sandwiches and computing on the internet". I imagine that they are fun to be around. What I can speak to is their work.
        While all of their work is very different, it is all distinctively theirs. Looking through their website, I began to notice that images were moving (a startling discovery at first), sometimes animated very subtly (a blink or breath). While many of their photographs and videos are simply set up to be strange and other-worldly, many of them have also had some sort of outside intervention, whether that be drawing strange sci-fi additions over the photos, collage, photo manipulations, and animation. While I am always excited to see anything different going on in fashion advertisement, their work is particularly interesting because it also speaks to other things, such as technology, medium and contemporary culture. Their work very successfully resides in both the worlds of fashion and art, and comments on both.

I know I always say this, but you really, seriously, need to look at their website. I couldn't post the moving images or their videos here, and there is just so much more on the website that I wish I could've posted. All of it really.

their website -so many amazing things here
their blog meowzas -has a complete list of their other projects and sites (flickr, youtube etc) on the links page






images: reedandrader.com
(last one is a video still)

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Beverly Semmes


        Beverly Semmes (a graduate of SMFA) gave a lecture at the MFA yesterday. Her work is often described as, and certainly appears to be, very feminist, so I was surprised and interested to hear that this was not her foremost concern, or even something that she had originally considered. Semmes described how one of her earlier pieces had been written up as a "pool of menstrual blood", and how she had been surprised and embarrassed, thinking that she had simply been making landscapes.
        It is impossible in contextualizing Semmes' work to ignore the feminist connotations of what she has created, intended or not. She works in female garments, placed together with empty vessels (either clay or glass, both of which are made by coiling). In order to understand where Semmes is really coming from though, it is important to look back at where she is stemming from.
        Out of grad school Semmes and her boyfriend (now husband) moved to a psychiatric hospital - where he worked and they were offered free housing. There Semmes became consumed by the hospital's extremely well manicured garden. She began to making garments which reflected the space, and making super-8 films of friends wearing the garments and walking around the garden (second image). It is here that Semmes identity as an artist began to become more apparent. She described the way no one could quite do it the way she wanted. People moved too fast, looked back at the camera, overacted. It was obvious that even if she could not express it at the time, she had a clear intentionality for these pieces. She described it as something like the "marking" or "claiming" of space.
        This continued into her other pieces. By using scale, color, and once even smell, Semmes has a complete control over space. She chooses colors which she describes as both beautiful and nauseating, sometimes with a goal of "color contamination", where nothing is safe from the color, reflecting off of walls, clothes and skin of observers. She plays with this even further in pieces where the garment is the same color as the walls, making it not only difficult to locate but almost claiming the entire room as her art. She ups the scale in every one of her pieces, making dresses that are unwearably huge and with oddly pushed proportions.
        One of her more interesting pieces (in my opinion) was a small room, with orange curtains surrounding it, a couple of red pots, and a large circle of tan bandaids stuck to the floor in the middle of the room. Semmes states that although it cannot be taken too literally (which would leave no place for the pots) she thinks that the bandaids were in some ways standing in for skin, and the curtains one of her dresses. This places the viewer in an undefined space, between skin and fabric, something I thought was really cool, and goes along with her interest in marking or claiming space.
        She showed and discussed work than I can describe here (I unfortunately was unable to find pictures of most of this work, including much of what I was so interested in), but some other things she showed included giant fluorescent yellow "poops" with a guard dressed in the same yellow, a sea of pink fabric (the guard again dressed in the same color, and often chosen to be an older woman), video and images of Semmes watching her feet (an exploration, she says, of the self-absorption involved in being an artist), and a collaboration with a dance studio - something which she again like her early super-8 films, disliked her lack of control over, and ended up making new work in response to this.
        If you ever get an opportunity to see her work, I could not advise more that you do so. It is difficult to find too many images of her work on the web, and that aside her work is of an extremely experiential nature, and I have a feeling that photos only begin to scratch the surface.

Semmes' website
70min conversation lecture with Semmes and Glenn Adamson at the PA ICA




images: various sources including beverlysemmesstudio.com

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Shin Murayama


        I happened upon Shin Murayama's series Valhalla (first two images), on I Don't Like Mondays, an online boutique for young rising designers. The series is not only really cool, but 50% of the proceeds go to Designers Against Aids. Valhalla consists of four masks, each with their own meaning (described in an interview) and made from what seems to be recycled materials. They feature beautiful stitching and a clear awareness of texture and material.
        Murayama, (who is 32) has worked professionally in the fashion industry since 2004, though he is unsure whether his work lies on the "arts" or "fashion" side of things (though if you ask me these worlds can coexist, and certainly do in his work), and in his interview with I Don't Like Mondays says, "I still don't know if I am an artist yet."
        Looking at his work I would say absolutely yes, but I think whether one defines themselves as an artist or not is entirely personal. Check out his work and be the judge for yourself.

I Don't Like Mondays Murayama feature
I Don't Like Mondays Myrayama interview
Vogue Hommes Japan feature
Designers Against Aids




images: idontlikemondays.us

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Dinah Hayt & Matthieu Pabiot


        Another shorter post... I've become really interested in men's fashion spreads lately. This has a lot of influences, ranging from my love of the androgynous representations and fashion to the fact that I myself rarely photograph men. This spread in particular grabbed my attention (I realized later that it is reminiscent of The Compagnia della Fortezza's costumes for "Alice in Wonderland, a Theatrical Essay on the End of a Civilization" which I wrote about in July, I think it may be the ears that are making me think of it).
        "The Play-Boys" was styled by Matthieu Pabiot and shot by Dinah Hayt for the October issue of 160g magazine (which just launched last month). I will add that it doesn't hurt that Mecca (the tattooed model, who is signed to Nathalie Models) has a really beautiful face, but the shoot is just really visually appetizing. The styling is expert, I love the mix of feminine and masculine pieces (the paired leather bra, wool blazer, and suede bicycle shorts are brilliant).
        I'm really intrigued by the handling of men in fashion. I think androgyny is beautiful. The images just got me thinking.

"The Play-Boys"
160g magazine




images: 160grams.com

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Tim Burton / Tim Walker


        Tim Burton (as is true of so many) has always been one of my favorite illustrators/directors/writers/artists in general. His imagination truly awes me. I'm not going to go into any sort of depth about who he is or what his work is like, because I'm pretty sure that at this point everyone knows, and it would probably just come across as some sort of hero worship.
        So my reason for this post is to say that this past spring I was VERY excited to discover that the Museum of Modern Art (NY) will be giving a retrospective on him. The show opens exactly a month from today (November 22), and will be open through April 26 of 2010. MoMA reports that the retrospective will include "drawings, paintings, storyboards, digital and moving-image formats, puppets and maquettes, props, costumes, ephemera, sketchbooks, and cartoons". The retrospective will be accompanied by a Tim Burton film exhibition (open Nov. 18 and closing with the retrospective).

        The fashion images that I have chosen to accompany this announcement are by Tim Walker and from the October issue of Harper's Bazaar. I'm not entirely sure what Burton's level of involvement was, Bazaar simply says "Tim Burton reimagines the season's dark delights", but the styling (which I will add is EXQUISITE. i want these clothes.) is clearly inspired by him and his work. A few of the stylings are more obvious representations of specific characters, (Edward Scissorhands, Lydia and Delia Deetz) and one is an actual costume representation of one a character from one of his poems. Tim Burton himself is featured in two of the photographs, and the spread is, of course, in anticipation of his upcoming retrospective. (The photographs are actually very beautifully done, I would recommend looking at them all, there are thirteen).

        Anyway, I'm sure I will see this show multiple times, and I encourage anyone who can get to New York to check it out. It's sure to be inspiring and you have plenty of time!

Tim Burton MoMA retrospective page
Tim Burton MoMA film exhibition page
the full Harper's Bazaar spread




images: harpersbazaar.com & moma.org

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Graham Tabor


        Just a quick one today (50th post!), but these images were way too badass to not share.
        Graham Tabor is a NY-based up and coming clothing designer who takes a very interesting approach to his collection, relating it to an archaeological dig "each fragment separate from the rest, almost veiling its origin", and referring to the wearers as warriors. Both statements are entirely just, as his designs look like they have endured battle, with strategically placed slashes, tangles, and bandaged feet. His collection, enhanced by the efforts of an entire collaborative team (photography- Miguel Villalobos, accessories- Kristin Victoria Barron, hair- Chinatsu Nobe, makeup- Fumii Nakagawa), transcends mere fashion and model and becomes a beautifully indistinguishable fusion of fashion, art, architecture, man, warrior and meaning.
        I was also taken with the fact that his collection, which entirely is for men (though I would wear any of it in a second), is so far from the typical menswear we see again and again, while still including menswear staples (such as the blazer). Tabor (and the rest of his team) is absolutely on to something, I'll surely be keeping an eye on him.

to see his collection, as well as a short bio and links to the rest of the team's sites, see Tabor's website.



images: grahamtabor.com

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Julia Hetta


        To take a break from the few more involved posts I've done recently, here is some photography that I just find particularly lovely.
        I was looking at past collections by fashion designer Lovisa Burfitt, and fell in love with the images for her autumn/winter 08 collection. I discovered that all of her collections (six seasons) have been shot by the same photographer, Julia Hetta.
        Hetta's website does not reveal much (it has contact information and a scrollable list of enlargable photographs) but she is represented by Agent Bauer, which hosts a more extensive collection of her work as well as a short bio. From this I learned that she is a Swedish photographer who graduated recently (2004) and has been featured in magazines as well as shown in exhibitions worldwide.
        There are many things I admire about Hetta's work, a brief list including; her effective use of high or low contrasts, light leaks, and visual tone. The images are both beautiful and lonely at the same time. Her distinctive color palette (described by Agent Bauer as "nearly renaissance") certainly adds to this. Her takes at the Burfitt fashion line are also very interesting; the images of the fashion itself are often coupled with landscapes or images of objects that mirror the textures, patterns, or colors of the fashion piece (and everyone knows I'm a sucker for a good diptych). I always get excited when fashion images stand out to me, as it is something I find myself pretty saturated in.
        In any case, her work is beautiful, and I think you should check it out.
The best place to do this is her Agent Bauer profile
but you can also check out her website
and the Burfitt website (which I would also recommend looking at, because the diptychs made of Hetta's images are really great)




images: agentbauer.com

Friday, July 24, 2009

Compagnia della Fortezza


        To finish off the run of Alice in Wonderland posts I've got going on here, I'd like to present you with this gem........ images from "Alice in Wonderland, a Theatrical Essay on the End of a Civilization", which debuted this week, the most recent show by the inmate-theatre group Compagnia della Fortezza, out of Volterra Italy. The work is loosely based on Alice in Wonderland but includes soliloquies from other famous writers such as Shakespeare and Chekhov.
        A friend sent me this article from The New York Times website, and before even realizing that these were convicts parading around in Wonderland-themed drag I was squirming with excitement. Only in Europe, I sighed to myself. It is stated that both prison and prisoners declined to say what they were in for, but around fifty are involved on a regular basis, both on stage and behind the scenes, and they take this opportunity very seriously (they are trusted with chainsaws and the like while building sets, and once while touring in 1995 several actors robbed banks in between shows and were "ostracized by fellow inmates" - as well as sentenced to more prison time).
        In any case, the schematics and politics of this theater are extremely interesting, so I would read the article for that, but at the very least take a look at the slide show- the costumes are FABULOUS!

"Maximum Security and a Starring Role"




images: nytimes.com

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Viktor & Rolf


        i was reading Weekly Dig (boston's free weekly entertainment mag) and a really short article about eyelashes caught my attention! apparently, dutch fashion design duo Viktor and Rolf have done a collaboration with cosmetic store shu uemura consisting of three pairs of couture false eyelashes.
        one pair is simply long and beautiful, but the other two are pretty unique. one, which consists of upper and lower lashes, has tiny gold rhombus shapes fitted on for a super glam look. my personal favorite pair looks sort of like paper clips, but the way they suggest eyelashes- with empty space and delicateness that in some ways speaks to drawing- is SO interesting to me. they almost seem like something you would see on an odd old mannequin.
        they're really just what you would expect if you heard Viktor & Rolf were doing eyelashes. if you're not familiar with their fashions you should check them out, they do some VERY interesting things.

you can see (or buy, for $95 a pair...) the eyelashes here.


photos: http://www.shuuemura-usa.com/Products/subcategory2.aspx?categoryid=1026

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Daniel Roberts


        i found Daniel Roberts' fashion illustrations a while back and immediately bookmarked them intending to write a post about him, then forgot... so it was a really great surprise for me to stumble back across them in my bookmarks today! i love the way he takes modern fashion imagery and imposes his style on it. i just really love his drawing style... the faces are great, and the exaggerated necks and legs really appeal to me for some reason. fashion and illustrations... so good. i also like his use of color in a few of the pieces that are mostly black and white, with some parts colored in. (he also has a lot of drawings of gemma ward, who is my favorite model!)
        take a good look around his blog (use the site directory on the left) he has some REALLY cool things on there, like layered illustrations and window displays. his fashion illustration style also carries really well into his book illustrations. annnd, he has a whole page of images that have inspired him, which is beautiful in of itself. it's definitely worth taking the time to explore.

Roberts' blog; Igor and Andre
slide show of some of his fashion illustrations
annnd buy his prints! (i wish i could afford one!)




photos: http://www.slide.com/r/M7j79XwG4D-7rpqfCoWBSaL3jpnnDn2k?cy=xa
and http://igorandandre.blogspot.com

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Sara Lage

        i was browsing through pictures of madrid fashion week and started seeing these bizarre creations by Sara Lage. they're very horror film -esque. anyway, i found them to be very intriguing. she says she is inspired by dada and surrealism, so my attraction to them definitely makes sense. i like the color scheme she is working with as well (black white gray and dark purple).
you can see more here & here
        update:
Lage's myspace
video clip of some of her creations on the runway
two articles (translated from spanish on google, so not perfect, sorry!) 1 2






photos: http://www.reuters.com
and http://lavozdigital.es